Workshop Tour 2019 (Pictorial)

So this morning I started to do a shop clean-up since I didn’t have any projects to work on. I also wanted a chance to use my new Dust Collection system and used the floor sweep accessory that I purchased, and it worked awesome.

I took a few updated pictures of how the shop looks now, the last time I took workshop pictures was over a year ago and the appearance of the shop has changed alot since then, with upgrades in tools and work surfaces.

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East Wall

Drastic Remodel here

In this section I drastically changed a lot , I used to have a long workbench attached where the router table is now but because the bench was so high since I wanted to store the router table underneath it was unusable so I got rid of it, I basically chopped it off from the right side that has all my drawer storage and the shelving unit.

Below is a before and after picture

BEFORE

BEFORE

AFTER

AFTER

A close up of the Lazy Susan, use this everyday for my common go to items in the shop, like glue, pencils, tapes and common hand tools like hammers and screw drivers… fun build and you can find more i nformation here.

A close up of the Lazy Susan, use this everyday for my common go to items in the shop, like glue, pencils, tapes and common hand tools like hammers and screw drivers… fun build and you can find more information here.

This is the section of the storage unit and bench that I left because I just love have a place for all my finishes and paints.

This is the section of the storage unit and bench that I left because I just love have a place for all my finishes and paints.

ROUTER TABLE

My router table is probably one of the most used tools in my shop, I use for basically 85% of my projects from making joinery cuts to making my own moldings, I used to have a shop made router table and fence but I recently upgraded to the Kreg Table & Fence and man what a difference a good tool makes.

Here is where my router table resides, for now. Too be honest its on wheels so it can be stored anywhere in the shop.

Here is where my router table resides, for now. Too be honest its on wheels so it can be stored anywhere in the shop.

The finished router table & cabinet

The finished router table & cabinet

Router cavity, I used plexi-glass here, the right door contains all the electrical connections

Router cavity, I used plexi-glass here, the right door contains all the electrical connections

Another angle showing the power switch

Another angle showing the power switch

MY CLAMP WALL

So because my workshop is on the basement I have walls off nothing but concrete walls so before I could figure out what storage method to use for the actual clamps I needed to build a basic panel and mount it to the the wall, and that’s when I found a Ramset basic model ( you hit it with a hammer)my brother in law uses and it’s great I mounted a 60”sq panel consisting of 3/4” ply and some Masonite all mounted to the wall using 2×4s and screws and the Ramset fasteners …

I made the panel larger than I need but I expect my clamp collection to expand and I might also hang a few other things on it to ..

This works out great but I am almost thinking of other options as he takes up so much wall space.

This works out great but I am almost thinking of other options as he takes up so much wall space.

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NORTH WALL

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North Wall

Hand tool wall storage

WALL MOUNTED PEGBOARD CABINET

I really love this unit as it stores most of my hand tools, its basically 6 foot wide pegboard with 2 doors that open and close and also has pegboard, this was one of the first things that I made for the shop and has served me well ,I still want to keep it but I might move it to another wall, because I want to make a nice hand tool cabinet for all my chisels, planes and in general expensive tools that I have purchased over the years. If you need more information please click on this link to get the plans

A close up of the pegboard unit.

A close up of the pegboard unit.

Here is the unit with the doors open, so much storage in this unit.

Here is the unit with the doors open, so much storage in this unit.

HAND TOOLBOX

Below the hand tool wall storage listed above I did make a hand tool small tool box and to be honest I dont like it and I am probably going to get rid of it when I make my nice solid wood hand tool wall cabinet in the future, its where I keep all my chisels and mallets and measurement tools, dovetail guides etc etc.. I like the construction of the box but the finish came out horrible. I used to have it on top of the bench that I dismantled and it currently sitting on a small table that I have.

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FILLING CABINET

I also made a filing cabinet out of plywood and solid oak. I never ever seemed to have a place to put all the paperwork that I create for all the projects that I make, I was constantly making plans for all kinds of projects so back in 2017 I decided to make this 4 drawer filing cabinet and I am so glad I did, especially in the future if I want to look back on what I did I have my files to remind me lol.

I could of added a drawer to the top but I figured it was a good place to put stuff until I could file it away in my system.

I could of added a drawer to the top but I figured it was a good place to put stuff until I could file it away in my system.

I used full extension drawer slides for 2 reasons they can hold an incredible amount of weight and I could also access the back of each drawer letting me use all the space in the back.

I used full extension drawer slides for 2 reasons they can hold an incredible amount of weight and I could also access the back of each drawer letting me use all the space in the back.

WORKSHOP DOOR

My workshop didn’t have a door in place and I racked my head for a good 6 months back in 2017 trying to come up with a workable solution, I tried everything from shower curtains on them adjustable poles, I even made cover out of tarp and put zips in them to allow me access to the shop but none of them really worked, so I decided to finally make a door using plywood and construction grade lumber, but my problem was that like most basements I had a ton of plumbing and pipe running all over the shop and of course it was going through my doorway, so I had to make a door and retro-fit it, meaning I needed to take the top right corner out of a door so that is how I fabricated it.

This door is awesome and is still hanging today.

This door is awesome and is still hanging today.

I made my own door panel beading on the router table, a proud moment for me. lol

I made my own door panel beading on the router table, a proud moment for me. lol

Here is the retro-fitted section.. I told you the top right section was missing lol

Here is the retro-fitted section.. I told you the top right section was missing lol

User 2x4’s as the structure to attach the plywood to.

User 2x4’s as the structure to attach the plywood to.


WEST WALL

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West Wall

This side of the shop a;so has a lot of wall storage this is another section of the shop that I commonly use and it has the following storage solutions:

  • Wall mounted router accessories cabinet

  • Screw Storage

  • Pneumatic Nail Gun storage

Although most of these storage solution still work and when I made them I thought i did a decent job constructing them, but since my skills have improved I want to remake all this wall mounted fixtures and make nicer looking versions of them.

ROUTER ACCESSORIES CABINET

Back in 2016 I made this accessories cabinet for all my router stuff and its also a very useful shop addition, it contains storage for all my routers and most of their various jugs and accessories, the doors open up to a ton of router bit storage that I am still adding to. It also contains 2 medium sized box that I can keep a lot of stuff in as well like my non-slip mats for clamp free router work, and it is attached to the wall using a french cleat system. This is the only partial wall in my shop that has french cleat storage and buy do make the most of it.

This is an older picture but it filled up quickly.

This is an older picture but it filled up quickly.

The units 2 doors serves as router bit storage for both sizes of router bits 1/4” shank & 1/2” shanks.

The units 2 doors serves as router bit storage for both sizes of router bits 1/4” shank & 1/2” shanks.

Most of the bits that I owned at this point was 1/4” and you can see them here

Most of the bits that I owned at this point was 1/4” and you can see them here

When not in use the doors close up and provide plenty of protection from a dust workshop, I used simple butt hinges.

When not in use the doors close up and provide plenty of protection from a dust workshop, I used simple butt hinges.


NAIL GUN STORAGE

Also on this wall I made another french cleat storage solution for all my pneumatic nailers, I got this project idea from DIY Tyler’s YouTube Channel and its linked below.

The design of the unit is very simple and the best thing about it is the 2 drawers that keeps all the nails and brads in one place.

The unit has space for 5 nail guns of various sizes. It also has 2 drawers 1 for brads and the other for staples.

The unit has space for 5 nail guns of various sizes. It also has 2 drawers 1 for brads and the other for staples.

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Plenty of organised room for brads

Plenty of organised room for brads

I made multiple grooves in the base and top of the unit so as that I could adjust the widths of the dividers based on the size of the nailers.

I made multiple grooves in the base and top of the unit so as that I could adjust the widths of the dividers based on the size of the nailers.


FRENCH CLEAT SQUARE ORGANIZER

So I went to my bucket list of shop projects and picked one that I wanted to do, I have amassed a few assorted squares since picking up wood working and its one of them tools that never really had a home so a couple of months ago I found this project Jay Bates website @ JaysCustomCreations.com and it addressed this issue that I was having, I really liked at the simplicity of the project and it actually works really well, I will include a link to the build article

This project only got completed today so its also on my blog page as well. I will include a link to the blog article as well below.

Looks awesome, I think I might have a little OCD , lol especially when it comes to my workshop.

Looks awesome, I think I might have a little OCD , lol especially when it comes to my workshop.

Simple use of scrap lumber

Simple use of scrap lumber

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So my workshop is basically in the shape of an L and as you turn a corner you are almost at the back of the shop except I have a jut-out that has some built in cabinets both wall and floor, these do offer a tremendous amount of storage on the wall.. I keep things like all my woodworking reading materials, I also keep some storage items such as little nuts and bolts and bits and pieces that all home workshop have.

After I inherited my father in laws paint-shop I decided to make my own shaker style cabinet doors on all the cabinets but through the years these are the only ones that have survived because I took the rest of the cabinet down during various remodels I have done over the last 5 years.


CABINET DOORS UPGRADED

Its amazing what a lick of paint and some new doors can do to the appearance of a cabinet.

Its amazing what a lick of paint and some new doors can do to the appearance of a cabinet.

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Here is a cabinet on the floor and here is where I keep my miscellaneous items like little organizer bins for all my nuts an bolts. I designed and made all the cabinet doors

Here is a cabinet on the floor and here is where I keep my miscellaneous items like little organizer bins for all my nuts an bolts. I designed and made all the cabinet doors

This was the style of door that was on the cabinets before I made the shaker doors

This was the style of door that was on the cabinets before I made the shaker doors

While still on West side of the shop this area is also by back wall, and to be honest it is one of the areas of the shop that needs the most work because of basically its where every piece of shop furniture ends up when I need to create space elsewhere in the shop.

When I first got this shop it originally had a very old built in style bench with cabinets under them it also had a decent sized pegboard on top of it and I decided to keep because I currently use that for all of my jigs.

I currently keep the following tools back there and I have included pictures and links to each of them.


BACK OF SHOP

Here is a picture of the back of the shop.

Here is a picture of the back of the shop.

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AIR COMPRESSOR CART

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DRILL PRESS CART

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WOOD STORAGE CART


SOUTH WALL

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SOUTH WALL

Left Side

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SOUTH WALL

Right Side

The south wall of the shop has the following shop furniture contained in it, the South wall is pretty large so I needed to take 2 pictures so as that I could display everything in it.

I just recently added a new dust collector to the shop but more on that in a minutes, it also contains the following:

  • Dedicated Miter Saw Station

  • Cordless Tool Charging Station

  • Dust Collector Cart

  • More Wood storage

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DEDICATED MITER SAW STATION

This is one of the first pieces of shop furniture that I made for the shop and to date probably one of the biggest, I use this everyday I am in the shop as it a major step in my woodworking routine, I often need to cross cut wood to its final dimensions and when it is not sheet goods it gets done here, I use my table saw for cross cutting wider panel. To be honest this workstation has served me well over the last few years but I want to upgrade this and the miter saw as well, maybe 2019 will be the year I do it. I also added a dust hood to control the dust that this thing generates.

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CORDLESS TOOL CHARGING STATION

So this is my charging station that I also made a few years ago and its looking it, but still works great, I recently moved it from the right side of the miter station to the left as I needed to make room for my dust collection hose to connect to it, Its basic plywood construction with butt joints and glue and I have a power strip on the right side that everything charges from.

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DUST COLLECTION CART

In January I purchased a dust collection system from Rockler and its called the Dust Right, I was going to mount this on a wall but unfortunately I didn’t have a suitable location that easily accessed all my tools, my solution to this was yet again another cart, I currently am giving this plans away so as that you can build it yourself, I included a link below. I also made a detailed blog of the build and you can access these pages below.

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MORE LUMBER STORAGE

MORE LUMBER STORAGE

I made this lumber storage unit to fix my issues with wood absolutely everywhere in my shop so I actually found plans on line for this project and I have to say that it worked great but takes up far too much room on this wall, I think it might be time to change this system perhaps putting something on the wall that is mounted and off the valuable floor space that it takes up.

I included link below to the Rogue Engineer who developed the plans, if my shop was bigger this would work.

CENTER STAGE

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CENTER OF WORKSHOP

If I was to pick the most used part of my shop, the part of the shop is essential to any operation done in it, I would pick the center because it houses my Ridgid table saw and out feed table. Any cutting operation or assembly process all occurs here. I also added a table-saw accessories cart as well, I have included all available links to these projects below. I am actually in the process of designing a new out-feed table which might possibly have a torsion box top, whats funny is that as I am preparing this shop tour I have quite a lot of shop projects to complete this year so maybe I have bitten off more than I can chew for 2019, or perhaps all my projects will be workshop projects this year, and that is fine with me.


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TABLESAW ACCESORIES CART

I made this cart back in 2017 to solve the multitude of accessories that I have built up over the last few years, I used to store all my table-saw blades in a drawer in the out feed table but going there to get a blade every time I needed one got old so I decided to make this, I really like how it came out and it saves me a ton of time whenever I need to get something for the saw, feather boards, push sticks, dado stack blades, the list goes on and on.

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OUTFEED & ASSEMBLY TABLE

I found inspiration for this table from ” The Wood Whisperer” I made some modifications such as a lot more storage with the use of a shelf for my crosscut sled ( finally has a home up from under my workbench), I also put 3 self made drawers . I have 1 large drawer for a dedicated saw blade storage I only have 3 blades and a dado set but I plan on getting more as time progresses. The other 2 drawers are smaller in size and I will use them for TS accessories ( push sticks, feather boards)

If you would like to see more pictures and information click the button below, like I said earlier this table has served me very well and it looks it, its very beaten up and I am thinking of remaking another table but this time I think I will make the top a torsion assembly.


Well that is all I have as far as the shop tour is concerned, I wanted to originally make a video but I didn’t do that for a few reasons, since I am from Dublin, Ireland my accent is terrible when I make any kind of video, the lighting in the shop is not very conducive to making a video and anyway in a pictorial shop tour I am able to link all the shop furniture to additional information that I have on specific pieces. I didn’t always have a website or blog page so some of the project pages are links to my online workshop page that I have at www.lumberjocks.com this is where I started documenting my work and this page (link below) details roughly 90% of all my projects, so definitely head over to the shop and take a look.If you are a woodworker and want a community to belong to I cannot think of a better one.

Anyway I hope you enjoyed this length blog post and feel free to comment on absolutely anything about Eds Custom Woodcraft’s.

Take Care

French Cleat Square Organiser

I needed some shop time that wasn’t just about sweeping and vacuuming the entire shop, the shop does look great but whats the point of having a workshop if you are not making saw dust and actually making something, to be honest it was so clean it made me a little nervous of dirtying it up again, lol.

So I went to my bucket list of shop projects and picked one that I wanted to do, I have amassed a few assorted squares since picking up wood working and its one of them tools that never really had a home so a couple of months ago I found this project Jay Bates website @ JaysCustomCreations.com and it addressed this issue that I was having, I really liked at the simplicity of the project and it actually works really well, I will include a link to the build article in this blog.

Its basically another French Cleat design and since I had some leftover room on my solitary french cleat wall I decided it was a great place for it.

Here is a summary of what went into the project today.

  • Concept & Design

  • Materials

  • Execution

Concept & Design

Like I previously mentioned I came across this project on Jay Bates website Jayscustomcreation.com he is one of the woodworkers that I follow from time to time and he also has a YouTube channel.

This project is great to use up some scrap materials and that is exactly what I did.

Usually when I want to make a project I usually fo to my computer and make a 3D model of what I want to make but this time was different I made this project on the fly simply because I needed to see the actual tools in position to determine how big the back was going to be, so sorry no Sketchuop model on this.

MATERIALS

  • Piece of 3/4” plywood, mine measured 12” x 24” but

  • Some 2 x material I had some poplar, pine and oak just lying around so I used that.

  • A hacksaw blade or some very thin aluminum flat bar

EXECUTION

Here are the steps of the build that I took I didn’t take that many pictures of the build but you can follow along with Jays article that I included at the end of the blog post.

  1. I laid out all the different types of squares that I had, I had some speed squares, machinist squares, combination squares and a few other items that I wanted to include on the organizer, I needed to lay out everything to figure out spacing of where everything was going to fit.

  2. I started ripping & cross cutting some oak to use as hangers for the speed squares, then I predrilled the backs of them so as that I could screw them into the top of the backer board.

  3. Then I made a holder for my combination & machinist squares this took a little more work but its basically a piece of 1-1/2” thick material that I cut a big rabbit out of to create a shelf doe the square to sit on, this way I could fit sizes to each work-piece.

  4. Finally I took a hacksaw blade and drilled two holes on each end, then I used a screw to secure the blade onto the backer board I also used some really small washers to give clearance, I will be using this to mount some measuring tapes to.

Some Finished Pictures

Here is what I needed to organize

Here is what I needed to organize

Here is what it looks like now all nice and neat and everything has its place.

Here is what it looks like now all nice and neat and everything has its place.

Some close up pictures

Some close up pictures

The holders are nothing more than a block of wood with some strategically placed Kerf cuts so the tool can slide in and out.

The holders are nothing more than a block of wood with some strategically placed Kerf cuts so the tool can slide in and out.

A hacksaw blade provide easy measuring tape storage.

A hacksaw blade provide easy measuring tape storage.

I used a hacksaw but a piece of aluminum flat bar would also work.

I used a hacksaw but a piece of aluminum flat bar would also work.

All in all I am very happy about how this project turned out and even happier that it didn’t cost me a penny.

Thanks for tuning into this blog and I will catch you later.

Dust Collector Cart Project : Completed

Well for the most part the dust collection cart is finished, I needed to do a few little things to finish it up.So here is what I did today.

  • Applied a few coats of polyurethane to the sides and the base of the cart

  • Attached all the mounting hardware to the divider

  • I filled the gap that was left in the base.

  • All finished

POLYURETHANE

As I said in my last blog post I was going to apply a couple of coats of polyurethane to the base and side assemblies in the cart, this adds a couple layers of protection to the cart and it is also easy to wipe down.

Here is an image of one of the sides after applying the 2 coats of polyurethane, the wooden plugs pop and look nice, there was no point painting as the sides would get the most abuse.

Here is an image of one of the sides after applying the 2 coats of polyurethane, the wooden plugs pop and look nice, there was no point painting as the sides would get the most abuse.

MOUNTING HARDWARE

I needed to add the mounting clip that holds the dust collector in place as well as all the mounting hardware that keeps all the handles and dust collections hose in place.

Here is all the mounting hardware attached, I actually moved one of the straps on the bottom left to the bottom right to hold my floor sweep that I also purchased.

Here is all the mounting hardware attached, I actually moved one of the straps on the bottom left to the bottom right to hold my floor sweep that I also purchased.

FILLED THE BASE GAP

Since the base is basically a plywood sandwich with 2” x 4” ‘s in the middle it created a 3-1/2” gap so I decided to cover it up, so I cut 2 pieces of plywood to size ans secured it with screws into the lumber. Below you can see before and after pics.

Here is the gap I am referring to before covering it.

Here is the gap I am referring to before covering it.

Here is the gap covered up with the plywood panel. Looks a little better and will prevent dust from getting inside the base.

Here is the gap covered up with the plywood panel. Looks a little better and will prevent dust from getting inside the base.

ALL FINISHED

This will probably one of them on going projects as I build my dust collection accessories but as of right now that is all I have to install on the cart, possibly in the future I might add a small 2” dust hose real and probably a dust separator.

I am very happy about how the cart came out and it works great, I used it for the first time today and world awesome I might need a longer hose other than the 14’ hose I am currently using to reach my entire shop but that is why I made the cart, as it follows me through-out the shop.

I have plans available in my store soon and I will include a link below

This side of the cart is empty for now but I will probably add a hose real and a dust separator

This side of the cart is empty for now but I will probably add a hose real and a dust separator

Here is a picture of the floor sweep, this works great and is ideal for cleaning up the shop floor, I actually used one of the dust hose straps to attach it to the divider of the cart , that way it will not fall when the cart is mobile.

Here is a picture of the floor sweep, this works great and is ideal for cleaning up the shop floor, I actually used one of the dust hose straps to attach it to the divider of the cart , that way it will not fall when the cart is mobile.

Here is the dust collector in its new home, it looks great and is extremely versatile allowing me to clean my entire shop and also will eventually be hooked up to all my station power tools to get rid of the saw dust.

Here is the dust collector in its new home, it looks great and is extremely versatile allowing me to clean my entire shop and also will eventually be hooked up to all my station power tools to get rid of the saw dust.

Just another angle of the cart, I really like the docking cup that holds the handle in place and Rockler will did a great job inventing the dust hose organizer.

Just another angle of the cart, I really like the docking cup that holds the handle in place and Rockler will did a great job inventing the dust hose organizer.

Thank you for reading this blog series and Ill talk to you again soon.

Take Care

Dust Collector Cart : Finishing Touches

So now that I have the Cart assembled I needed to do some of the finishing touches on the project and a few other odds & ends today, so here is what I did.

  • Filled all of the counter-sunk holes either with wood filler (on the divider& base) or wooden plugs needed to be added to the sides.

  • Making the wooden plugs

  • Some Sanding

  • I needed to build the dust collector & install it temporarily onto the cart

  • A lick of paint

ADD WOOD FILLER

I added wood filler to the counter-sunk holes on the divider 7 base sections of the cart, I used filler in these 2 sections because I was going to come back and paint these sections later on today.

Below you can see some pictures of the filler and before and after pictures of the cart.

I used this filler because its natural color matched the color of the sanded plywood.

I used this filler because its natural color matched the color of the sanded plywood.

Here is what some of the holes looked like, I have to say that the filler did a great job, sometimes I usually mix wood glue and saw dust so as that the filler matches the wood being filled but because this was plywood I just used this.

Here is what some of the holes looked like, I have to say that the filler did a great job, sometimes I usually mix wood glue and saw dust so as that the filler matches the wood being filled but because this was plywood I just used this.

Here is the plywood after being filled, doesn’t look too bad at all, but no mind this will be painted later. The plywood looks dusty but I have not wiped it down yet.

Here is the plywood after being filled, doesn’t look too bad at all, but no mind this will be painted later. The plywood looks dusty but I have not wiped it down yet.

MAKING SOME WOODEN PLUGS

I decided to use wooden plugs on the sides since I wasnt going to paint this section. I usally have a ton of wooden plugs on standy but I couldnt locate them and I didnt want to go to a store to buy some more. I did find however a length of oak dowel that I decided to cut up into indivual plugs to use.

I brough the dowel over to my chop saw to cut them but everytime I cut one dowel I bounced all over the place and I could not find it, so I decided to switch gears and them by hand.

I made a quick and dirty jig and use my Japanese pull saw to cut them, the jig is very basic. I used a scrap piece of plywood and glued a fence in place , then cut a kerf into the base indicating where to position my saw and receive the same length dowel everytime, you can see a few pictures below of the jig.

Here is the jig, I used a spring clamp to hold the stop block in place while the glue set, you can also see the kerf I cut indicating where to position the saw.

Here is the jig, I used a spring clamp to hold the stop block in place while the glue set, you can also see the kerf I cut indicating where to position the saw.

This is a close-up picture of the jig

This is a close-up picture of the jig

Here you can see my Japanese pull saw, this worked out awesome and I will definitely use this jig in the future.

Here you can see my Japanese pull saw, this worked out awesome and I will definitely use this jig in the future.

INSTALLING THE WOODEN PLUGS

Installing the wooden plugs is very simple, just apply glue into the counter-sunk holes making sure to get glue on the walls of the hole and not the base because that is where the screw is, wood glue will not work attaching the plug to screw head, tap the dowel home until you hear it seat, then leave for about 30 minutes returning with a flush cutting saw to remove the excess, you can see pictures below of this process.

Here are the plugs insta

Here are the plugs insta

Here is me using my flush trim saw removing the excess plugs.

Here is me using my flush trim saw removing the excess plugs.

Here is a picture of wooden plugs all flush trimmed, looks good, these plugs will pop once I apply the polyurethane finish to the sides.

Here is a picture of wooden plugs all flush trimmed, looks good, these plugs will pop once I apply the polyurethane finish to the sides.

SANDING

I didn’t take any pictures of this step because lets face sanding is boring , its one of them steps that needs to get done but I dont get and enjoyment out of it, I used 120 grit sand paper on my orbital sander and sanded every surface, and then came back with 180 grit and sanded some more, after I was done I came back with a tack cloth to remove all the dust, and prepped the cart for paint.

ASSEMBLING THE DUST RIGHT DUST COLLECTOR

Before I moved onto the painting part of the project I needed to assemble the dust collector unit, so I did the following:

  • Removed all the contents of the boxes

  • Read the user guide and assembly instruction

  • Made sure all parts were accounted for and not damaged.

  • Assembling the dust collector was pretty easy except they included the wrong size wrench in the assembly kit to tighten all the bolts, but its a good thing that I have my own.

    Other than that the tool was well packaged and the instruction were easy to follow, below you can see the parts all laid out before assembly began.

Here is the Dust Right dust collector pre-assembly.

Here is the Dust Right dust collector pre-assembly.

TEMPORARILY ATTACHING THE UNIT

Now that the dust collector was all assembled I needed to determine the following before I got to painting the cart.

  • The dust collector motor is attached to the cart using the supplied Z bracket, which is almost like a shop made french cleat but made of metal, the bracket is about 10” long so I needed to place the bracket so as that I came into contact the 2” x 4”’s I used to make up the divider, this dust collector is not light and I needed to locate these studs so as that all of it considerable weight could be handled correctly

  • Secondly I purchased some accessories to organise the dust collector main handle and hose, otherwise this cart would fail before I ever got to using it, the hose that I purchased was 2 feet long but expanded to 14 feet and I needed a way to organise this and not just have it sitting on the cart base..

  • I also purchased a Rockler Dust right floor sweep which basically is a big vacuum attachment that you can use in conjunction with the dust collector to vacuum the floor of my shop.

    Below are pictures of all these accessories and of course the main dust collector.

Here is the main dust collector all attached, the organizers keep everything in its place.

Here is the main dust collector all attached, the organizers keep everything in its place.

Here is the docking port for the main handle, this handle hooks up to every accessory that I purchased, this docking cup is screwed to the cart using 3 screws and the handle slips on over the outside of the dock, works awesome.

Here is the docking port for the main handle, this handle hooks up to every accessory that I purchased, this docking cup is screwed to the cart using 3 screws and the handle slips on over the outside of the dock, works awesome.

Here you can see the adjustable straps that keep the hose organised while its not being use, its basically a rubber strap with holds , you can use this with a variety if diameter hoses.

Here you can see the adjustable straps that keep the hose organised while its not being use, its basically a rubber strap with holds , you can use this with a variety if diameter hoses.

I didn’t get to organised this today , but this is a stock photo displaying what it can be used for. I think this will probably get mounted on the other side of the dust collector.

I didn’t get to organised this today , but this is a stock photo displaying what it can be used for. I think this will probably get mounted on the other side of the dust collector.

Here is another stock photo displaying the docking systems for the handle and hose.

Here is another stock photo displaying the docking systems for the handle and hose.

PAINTING TIME

Like I commented earlier in this post I decided to paint some of the cart, so I decided to purchase a gloss paint the color of the powder coating on the dust collector its a kind of light grey. But before I got started painting I needed to section off the areas that were not receiving the paint, which were the sides and the base.

My painting skills are not that great so I used blue painters tape to outline the area that I was painting and then used a 2’ paint brush to cut in the paint around the edges and then finally used a small roller to paint the divider panels, I think it came out great, below you can see the pictures.

Here is one of the sides of the cart all painted up, its the same on the other side.

Here is one of the sides of the cart all painted up, its the same on the other side.

Well that is all I had time for today, thanks for reading.

NEXT:

  • I need to add polyurethane to the base and sides of the cart

  • Permanently mount the dust collector and all accessories, I still need to figure out where to place my small shop vac.

  • Add handles to the upper edges of the cart, so as that I can pull it around with ease.

Dust Collector Cart: The Build

So now that I have everything that I need to get started on the build, I have broken down the build into the following sections:

  • Follow the cut-list

  • Make the Base

  • Make the Divider

  • Attach the Sides

CUT-LIST

Using my plans and cut-list it was time to start cutting everything to their final dimensions. My first stop was to the table-saw to cut all the plywood parts to final size.

Here is a picture of me cutting the plywood down.

Here is a picture of me cutting the plywood down.

Here is all the plywood cut down to their respective dimensions

Here is all the plywood cut down to their respective dimensions

Next I was over to the miter saw station to cut all the 2” x 4” lumber to their final dimensions.

Here you can see my miter saw station set-up, or part of it anyway lol

Here you can see my miter saw station set-up, or part of it anyway lol

My miter saw station is one of my most used workstation because I can set-up repeatable cuts just like this one, I used my Kreg production stop to make quick work of cutting these dimensional lumber down to size.

My miter saw station is one of my most used workstation because I can set-up repeatable cuts just like this one, I used my Kreg production stop to make quick work of cutting these dimensional lumber down to size.

So now that everything has been cut to its final dimension, well except for the sides (but more about that later).

Here is all the sheet goods and lumber all cut to final size.

Here is all the sheet goods and lumber all cut to final size.

MAKE THE BASE

The base is basically a sandwich of plywood and 2x4’s glued and screwed together.

Step 1: I gathered my parts to make the base which were 2 plywood panels and 3 pieces of 2” x 4”. The plywood is positioned on the bottom and the top and in the middle is the 2”x4” positioned on their sides. I screwed through both bottom and top plywood sheets into the lumber sandwiched in the middle, I also applied glue to both edges of the lumber so as that when I screwed into the sheets the screws would act as clamps until the glue dried.

Here is the base with the plywood sheets on top and bottom with the lumber sandwiched in the middle, I clamped the plywood onto the lumber while screwing everything together, glue was also added. I counter-sunked the screws because I will be coming back and filling all these holes later on in the project.

Here is the base with the plywood sheets on top and bottom with the lumber sandwiched in the middle, I clamped the plywood onto the lumber while screwing everything together, glue was also added. I counter-sunked the screws because I will be coming back and filling all these holes later on in the project.

Here is another picture of the base, you can see where I placed all the counter-sunked screws.

Here is another picture of the base, you can see where I placed all the counter-sunked screws.

ADDING CASTORS

Almost everything in my shop is mobile mainly because I work alone I need all my large shop furniture to be easily moved about to make shop layout a little easier.

In the past when adding castors I usually used lag bolts and nuts to attach the castor’s to the bottom of whatever it is I am making, but I am tired of pre-drilling holes and making sure that I have enough clearance for the nuts to not interfere with the mobile aspect of the project.

But over the last 2 projects I have using self taping hex head screws and they have been working great, below you can see the screw type that I am referring to and they can be purchased at any home center.

Here is the self tapping screw, I just add a washer and using my driver I screw them home.

Here is the self tapping screw, I just add a washer and using my driver I screw them home.

A real close-up of the Hex Head self tapping screw

A real close-up of the Hex Head self tapping screw

Here is one oft he 3” casters that I will be using to make the whole cart mobile.

Here is one oft he 3” casters that I will be using to make the whole cart mobile.

All casters positioned and ready to roll

All casters positioned and ready to roll

Here is the completed Base

Here is the completed Base

THE DIVIDER

Again the divider will act as a wall in which I secure the Dust collector on and everything else that I can fit, the construction of the divider is very much the same as the base with a few subtle differences

  • Its bigger

  • The 2” x 4” lumber is laid flat and not on its edge

  • The plywood is screwed into the lumber from the front and then glue is used to hold everything together, the screws again acts as clamps.

  • I used my hand held trim router to round-over the sides of the divider so as that they are nice to the touch.

I didn’t spare any glue on this glue-up but this is a look at how the divider was constructed, I did place a few countersunk screws into the lumber to hole it in place so as that I could flip the divider to the other side and attach the other panel.

I didn’t spare any glue on this glue-up but this is a look at how the divider was constructed, I did place a few countersunk screws into the lumber to hole it in place so as that I could flip the divider to the other side and attach the other panel.

Here is a close-up of the round-over, Ill come back later and sand everything down

Here is a close-up of the round-over, Ill come back later and sand everything down

Both panel;s have been attached and I about to use my router to round-over the sides of the divider.

Both panel;s have been attached and I about to use my router to round-over the sides of the divider.

Here is the divider sitting on the base, it has not been secured yet that is why I am using some shop made right angle holders.

Here is the divider sitting on the base, it has not been secured yet that is why I am using some shop made right angle holders.

image-6969.jpeg

POSITIONING THE DIVIDER ON THE BASE

In order to make the sides I needed to position the divider on the base and make sure that everything lined up when i went to attach the sides.

In the above picture you can see that I used a unique clamping method these little helpers are a must have on a big projects like these as they act as another set of hands. I basically clamped these supports so as that I could position the divider in the middle of the base, but the clamps posse a major problem, since I need to attach the sides by screwing them from the outside of the plywood panel the clamps were in the way, its funny how you can never imagine all the problems of a build until your building, so my solution was to remove the clamps and basically screw the right angle supports into the base and the divider.

Here you can see the screws holding the right angled support in place allowing me free access to the sides without any hindrance.

Here you can see the screws holding the right angled support in place allowing me free access to the sides without any hindrance.

Here is another images, whoops I cracked one of the supports

Here is another images, whoops I cracked one of the supports

Everything plum and square

Everything plum and square

Now that I can stabilize the divider it was time to move onto making the sides.

THE SIDES

The sides are probably the most important part of this construction because it holds everything together, since I did not attach the divider to the base I need the sides to hold all the weight of the divider.

The sides are basically 2 big triangles that I cut out with my jigsaw and then as usual glue and screwed them into place from the outside of the side panels.

A little lay-out work is needed

A little lay-out work is needed

I clamped both sides together and gang cut them with my jigsaw that way both sides would be identical.

I clamped both sides together and gang cut them with my jigsaw that way both sides would be identical.

After cutting the giant triangles I placed countersunk holes in the areas that I needed to use screws to attach them to the divider and base, I also used a riser block under the side as I was securing them .

I positioned riser block on the ground to sit the side onto and then applied the glue and screwed this side in place I repeated this for the other side. I will be filling all these holes in the future.

I positioned riser block on the ground to sit the side onto and then applied the glue and screwed this side in place I repeated this for the other side. I will be filling all these holes in the future.

CART ASSEMBLED

With the sides in place the construction phase of the build is complete, I still need to do a bunch more work finishing the cart but you can see where I leave the project today.

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image-6801.jpeg

NEXT PHASE 5: FINISHING

Thanks for reading catch you all soon.

Dust Collector Cart Project : Research & Design

So now that I purchased the Dust Collector from Rockler, the next phase of this multi-faceted project was to store it . I needed the following features of installing a dust collection system in my shop

  • It needed to mobile

  • It needed to drastically improve my dust collecting capabilities in the shop

  • I needed to remedy my constant need to clean the shop especially when it came to the dust.

  • It needed to reach all my major tools that I have now and ones that I plan on purchasing in the future.

As I usually do for any project I take the following steps before I decide on what to make and how to make it.

  • Research

  • Make Plans to assist with the build

  • Buy Project Supplies

  • The Build

RESEARCH

While scouring the internet I came across this concept from a YouTube channel simply named Evan&Katelyn where they build this awesome cart out of construction lumber and plywood and it solves most of my problems.

Its basically a wall mounted on a mobile base where they hang all there dust collection equipment, everything from the same system that I will be using and a tone more such a a hanging shop vac, all accessories for the Dust Right System all neatly organised on a double sides wall.

Below you can see the YouTube video

DESIGN

As I usually do I went to Sketchup my 3D design software and drew up a set of plans and cut-lists and so forth, I will be making these plans available in the near future.

Although the video was a tremendous help they never told me what the dimensions were and anyway I needed to modify this cart so it would function in my work-space.

My design can be broken into 3 main assemblies

  • The Base (needs to be mobile so I added 3”castors)

  • The Divider

  • The Sides

Below you can see the 3D representation of the cart

Here you can see the 3D model of the cart, its 72” tall x 24” wide x 36’ deep

Here you can see the 3D model of the cart, its 72” tall x 24” wide x 36’ deep

PROJECT SUPPLIES

I needed to go to my local big box store and get the supplies that I needed and here is what you need to make this cart

  • (QTY 2) 4’x8’x3/4” plywood

  • (QTY 6) 2” X 4” X 8’ construction grade lumber

  • (QTY 4) 3” Castors

  • Glue

  • 1-5/8” screws (1 Box)

NEXT : PHASE 4 THE BUILD………………..

Dust Collector Cart Project : Shopping

SHOPPING

Phase 2 was all about shopping I had saved for a little while and now it was time to buy the dust collector and a few accessories so off I went to Rockler Woodworking located in Cambridge, Massachusetts.

Here is a list of what I purchased:


Rockler is a great store that you can go for all your woodworking needs, I am lucky enough to have a store near me but they do have a great  website that you can check out

Rockler is a great store that you can go for all your woodworking needs, I am lucky enough to have a store near me but they do have a great website that you can check out

Here is a quick picture of everything that I got, its all mentioned above.

Here is a quick picture of everything that I got, its all mentioned above.

PHASE THREE NEXT

Dust Collector Cart Project : Making Room

MAKING SPACE

As I mentioned in my previous post I am currently under going a shop improvement and Upgrade phase and to kick this off I just purchased a new Dust Collector Unit. I went with Rockler’s Dust Right Unit.

When I originally planned I had an idea of where I was going to put this unit so as that I would be central to all my tools especially the tools that generate the bulk of my saw dust for example the table-saw and chop saw. I even went so fat to alter my current layout by getting rid of a unit I was using and place it on the wall which is one of the reasons I purchased this system, but it wasn’t to be because it really was not the best location and was way to far away from my chop saw, so I had to rethink its home.

Below you can see the alterations that I made in the before and after pictures

BEFORE PICTURES

The bench that I had made and attached to the shelving unit was designed way too high so 9 could store my router table under, and the bench height was just too high to do any type of work on.

The bench that I had made and attached to the shelving unit was designed way too high so 9 could store my router table under, and the bench height was just too high to do any type of work on.

image-7574.jpg

AFTER PICTURES

Here is the space that I created after removing the bench, it would have been ideal with the outlet right there and my table-saw on the side.

Here is the space that I created after removing the bench, it would have been ideal with the outlet right there and my table-saw on the side.

I am not worried though as I will be using the space in the future, I plan on building a traditional style workbench in the future and this maybe its new home.

I am not worried though as I will be using the space in the future, I plan on building a traditional style workbench in the future and this maybe its new home.

Sometimes what you have planned for your work-space works out great and other times it doesn’t, to be honest I was eventually going to amend this bench in the future so I look at it as a win win, its better to correct a mistake than to force a bad idea to make it work.

I think over the past 4 years I have changed my shop layout at least a half dozen times and the shop looks completely different than when I started. My goal is to always make it work easier and make my workflow smoother.

2019 SHOP IMPROVEMENTS & CHANGES

If anyone receives my Newsletter especially the December 2018 one you would know that I spent a lot of time thinking about shop upgrades and changes. If you don’t currently receive my Newsletter you can sign up below:

During the last several weeks I have been wondering what changes I needed to make to the workshop over the next year or so, and I broke it into 2 sections.

The First Section


The first section deals with new tools that I need to get and the tools I need deal with two sections dust collection and lumber milling.

Dust Collection:


I have decided to get Rocklers Dust Right mainly because of the following reasons:

Its affordable under $300.00

Its compact because it mounts on the wall, the reviews on this dust collection system are really good and all the accessories for it are affordable and puts it in the budget of a woodworker hobbyist like myself.

I don't need to spend a fortune and run 4" ducting pipe all over the shop as the expansible hose can be run to one tool at a time.

When I move out of this shop and into another it will not be a big ordeal in transferring it.

Dressing Lumber


The other tools that I want to get this year deals with lumber dressing and milling, I currently have no tools that can dress lumber, what I mean by that is that I cant take a rough piece of wood and thickness and joint it, I have always depended on either buying my lumber from big home centers like Home Depot and buying their limited supply of wood as it was already dimension-ed and ready for use, lately they have a diminishing supply of hardwoods and only primarily supply Oak, Poplar and Pine.

The other way I could buy lumber that was dimension-ed was to go to local lumber yards where they sell a very large selection of hard & softwoods but they were rough and needed to be dimension-ed at an added cost sometimes as much as $75 per hour in the lumber yard milling department, which can run very expensive.

So with all that stated the 2 products that I have done a decent amount of research on has been the following tools:

Section Two

Section 2 deals with my workshop layout and how my workflow could be improved and I usually achieve this by moving the shop around and determine what is the most functional layout for my style and methods of woodworking.

It also can be improved by either moving, removing or making new shop fixtures such as designated work areas, the workbenches that I currently use. To be honest I really want to make a traditional workbench but I don't see myself as a solely hand tool woodworker, in the words of the Wood Whisperer (Marc Spagnulo) I am most definitely a hybrid woodworker because I love using both hand & power tools to get the job done.

So to that end I think I will be making a small traditional workbench out of hard maple and I just purchased the front vise for it in a Woodcraft sale.

That is enough details on what I hope happens in the very near future.

Lego Tray: All Finished

So today I finally put all the finishing touches on my sons Lego Tray and I have to say it came out better than expected.

HERE IS WHAT I DID

  • Some Sanding

  • More router work

  • Added Handles

  • Adhered the baseplates to the tray

  • Applied a finish

SOME SANDING

So after the paint had dried on the name I routered into two of the sides it was time to clean that up by sanding it, so I used 80 grit upto 320 grit paper to make the name pop. It isnt a bad job for some free routing.

Needed to sand the entire tray so I worked up from 80 grit to 320 grit for the entire tray.

Needed to sand the entire tray so I worked up from 80 grit to 320 grit for the entire tray.

BEFORE  Sanding

BEFORE Sanding

AFTER  sanding.. came out great

AFTER sanding.. came out great

MORE ROUTER WORK

I also decided that I wanted to router a chamfer along the bottom edge of the tray to give the effect that it is floating on the surface. So I used a chamfer bit in my palm router and did all outside edges of the base.

Here is my palm router with a chamfer bit installed in the Colette

Here is my palm router with a chamfer bit installed in the Colette

Here is a close-up of the chamfered edge as viewed from the bottom of the tray.

Here is a close-up of the chamfered edge as viewed from the bottom of the tray.

Here is a close-up of the camfered edge it really makes the whole tray look like its floating, I love this kind of subtle design element.

Here is a close-up of the camfered edge it really makes the whole tray look like its floating, I love this kind of subtle design element.

ADDED THE HANDLES

I wanted a simple way of carrying the tray around so I just purchased some big box style handles and attached them in the center of the frame components that didnt have his name routered in.

I had wanted to use handles that I made for a project during the summer that I had left over but they were too big to fit on the 1-1/2” wide sides of the trays frame, but these will do.

I had wanted to use handles that I made for a project during the summer that I had left over but they were too big to fit on the 1-1/2” wide sides of the trays frame, but these will do.

Adhered the Base-Plates

Unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to take any pictures of me doing this step because I had very little time in getting the gorilla glue onto the Lego base-plates and also the wooden base of the tray. The process was pretty straight forward I needed to scuff the bottom faces of the Lego plates and the plywood base so I used 60 grit sandpaper on both, this gives the gorilla glue a place to go to make sure I get a good contact between the 2.

Here is me using the 60 grit sand paper to rough up the bottom of the Lego bases plates

Here is me using the 60 grit sand paper to rough up the bottom of the Lego bases plates

Here is me doing the same to the plywood base.

Here is me doing the same to the plywood base.

Next I used the gorilla glue to adhere the plates to the plywood and after they were fit in I used some heavy paint cans to weight down the Lego bases so as as that I got a good adherence to the plywood.

Next I added some felt pads to the underside of the tray that way it would npt mark the wooden floors if it go slid around.

Here is a picture of the felt pads.

Here is a picture of the felt pads.

Applied Finish

All that was left to do was to apply a finish and I had some oil based polyurethane leftover from the Beer Flight project I had just completed, I applied 2 coats today and that was it, all finished.

All Finished

Below you can see a slideshow of the completed project, this was a super simple project that anyone can make and it will provide hours of fun to children of all ages.

Thanks for reading this short blog and I will catch you the next time.

Lego Tray For my son

So my wife asked me to make something that my 5 year old son could use with his Lego and I wanted to make him one of those Lego tables with drawers but honestly had no where to put one so I did some research online and found this nifty little project where it is basically a tray that you can set on the floor and build on and when it is not in use he can just slide it under his bed.

I didn’t make any plans for this and pretty much made it on the fly using some scraps I had lying around the shop I did need to get some materials and they are listed in this post.

This project should only take 3 stages and Part one is below:

WHAT I DID TODAY

  • Purchased materials

  • Cut pieces to size

  • Pocket Holes

  • Router Time

  • Assembling the tray

  • Router Time 2.0

  • A little paint

PURCHASE MATERIALS

I went to my local big box store and Target o get some supplies and here is what I got

  • (4) Lego base-plates (10”x10”)

  • 24” x 24” x 3/4” plywood panel

  • Gorilla Glue

  • I used scrap oak and poplar but you will need a piece of 1”x2” x 8” lumber.

  • (2) Utility handles

  • Pocket hole screws 1-1/4”

  • Furniture Pads

Here are all the supplies I got.

Here are all the supplies I got.

Here are the felt pads, screws and 2 handles.

Here are the felt pads, screws and 2 handles.

CUT PIECES TO SIZE

In order to figure out what all the dimensions needed to be for all the parts and the plywood panel I needed to open all the Lego base-plates and get the overall size and it worked out to 20-1/8” square.

so I cut the 3/4” plywood panel to 20-1/8” square on the table saw, and then cut all the wood strips which make up the frame that surrounds the panel.



Here is the wood pieces getting chopped to final size.

Here is the wood pieces getting chopped to final size.

Here is the plywood cut to final size

Here is the plywood cut to final size

POCKET HOLE TIME

In order to attach the outside frame pieces to the base I needed to added a joinjery system so I decided to keep it easy and just add pocket holes so I just add screws to attach the sides while the glue sets up.

I use the Kreg K4 jig and made a station for it where all my accessories for the jig are stored. So I placed 4 pocket holes on each side, below you can see the finished panel and the K4 station.

Here is the finished pocket hole base

Here is the finished pocket hole base

Here is one image of Kreg K4 pocket hole system that I used

Here is one image of Kreg K4 pocket hole system that I used

Here is another image of the Jig

Here is another image of the Jig

ROUTER TIME

I actually used the router twice in this build, I wanted to add my sons name to the outside edges of the frame so I used my Palm router to freehand his name but before I did that I needed to add some outlines of where I wanted to position the name.

Added outlines and even spaces of where I wanted the letters to go.

Added outlines and even spaces of where I wanted the letters to go.

Using my palm router with a 1/4” upcut router bit to carve the letters in.

Using my palm router with a 1/4” upcut router bit to carve the letters in.

Next I used a sharpie marker to write the letters in, also gives me a visual guide when using the router.

Next I used a sharpie marker to write the letters in, also gives me a visual guide when using the router.

Finally his name got carved, I will also adding black paint to the letters to make sure they stand out.

Finally his name got carved, I will also adding black paint to the letters to make sure they stand out.

ASSEMBLING THE TRAY

I took the following steps to assemble the tray:

  • Added glue to the inside faces of the 4 frame parts

  • Assembled them in the clamping jig

  • Inserted all the pocket screws into their respective holes

Here is the panel all set up in the pipe clamp jig, just about getting ready to screw them home. Glue has already been applied to the inside face of the frame pieces.

Here is the panel all set up in the pipe clamp jig, just about getting ready to screw them home. Glue has already been applied to the inside face of the frame pieces.

Here is another image of pipe clamp set-up I used the clamps because when using pocket holes they have the tendency to move the work-piece as you are screwing the pocket hole screws home, this set-up alleviates that.

Here is another image of pipe clamp set-up I used the clamps because when using pocket holes they have the tendency to move the work-piece as you are screwing the pocket hole screws home, this set-up alleviates that.

ROUTER TIME 2.0

I also wanted to add a round-over to all the edges of the frame so that my son didnt hurt himself on the tray, so I took it over to my router table with a round-over bit in the router and did all the outside edges, then I used my palm held router to get the inside edges of the frame and it came out great but tomorrow I will be sanding it down to make it even smoother to the touch.

Here you can see the round-over profile on the outside and inside edges of the frame.

Here you can see the round-over profile on the outside and inside edges of the frame.

A LITTLE PAINT

I wanted to add some black paint to the carved out letters for my sons name so I used some I had on hand and let it dry over night as I will be applying a polyurethane coat tomorrow. I will be sanding this whole surface down tomorrow which hopefully will make his name pop on the tray.

Messy looking right now but I will clean it up tomorrow.

Messy looking right now but I will clean it up tomorrow.

HOW I LEFT IT!!!

Below shows a picture of how I left the project today

Here is the project as I left it today, more finishing work tomorrow

Here is the project as I left it today, more finishing work tomorrow

NEXT

  • Sand the entire project

  • Apply the polyurethane prob 2-3 coats

  • Apply the Lego base-plates using Gorilla Glue

Craft Beer Flights : On sale

I finally got around to putting these beautifully hand crafted Beer Flights in both my Stores here on the site and also on Etsy.com.

These flights make a perfect gift for the craft beer lovers. I made two types that I will detail the differences below.

Craft Beer Flight : Design 1

This craft beer flight is made up of 3 contrasting wood species. I used Brazilian Sapelle, Curly Maple and Walnut. They measure approx 13” x 4” x 2-1/4”. This set includes 4 glasses that are 5oz in size.


Craft Beer Flight: Design 2

This craft beer flight is made up of 2 contrasting wood species. I used Brazilian Sapelle & Curly Maple . They measure approx 13” x 3” x 2-1/4”. However this set does not include the glasses simply because I ran out, but the flights have 2” diameter holes that will fit a myriad of beer sampler glasses that are not hard to find, however if you really want this style with the glasses I am selling limited supply on my Etsy store.


I only made a handfull of these flights so if you like them snatch them up before they sell out.

PDF PLANS AVAILABLE

On the other hand if you would like to make these beer flights yourself I am also selling a complete set of plans that are on sale for only $10.00 in the store. I have put a link below.

Craft Beer Flight Plans
15.00
Add To Cart

Thanks for reading and have a great day.

CRAFT BEER FLIGHTS : FINISHED

So for the last couple of days I have been busy applying all the coats of poly 3 in total and sanding between each coat then finally I burnished each flight with very fine steel wool to remove that sheen that always appears when you use oil based polyurethane.

But today I finally got to take some pictures of the finished flights. I really enjoyed this project and loved working with all the types of woods that made up this project.

Below are some pictures that I took and one more thing I take such terrible pictures of my crafts I have actually starting using some photo editing software to see if I can improve my pictures to a degree that matches the woodworking craftsmanship that goes into make items such as these. The pictures I take for selling purposes are terrible and want to improve them. I purchased Paint-shop Pro 2019 and its a real learning curve for me having never used editing software again so I am studying and practicing and the picture directly below is a result of what I have learned so far.

Here is my efforts using PaintShop Pro 2019. Not bad but I have a long way to go.

Here is my efforts using PaintShop Pro 2019. Not bad but I have a long way to go.

Here is one style that I made using Maple and Sapelle woods

Here is one style that I made using Maple and Sapelle woods

Here is the other style I made using Sapelle, Maple and Walnut

Here is the other style I made using Sapelle, Maple and Walnut

CRAFT BEER FLIGHTS : PICTURE COMPILATION

In the coming days I will be making these Craft Beer Flights available for purchase in my shop, I will let you all know when that is.

I will be taking a break for the month of December for the holiday period so I dont have any more projects on the books until the new year, I am going to be doing my anuual shop cleaning and trying to reorganize my shop for 2019.

Until the new year have a safe and happy holiday’s.

Project Award : Pipe Clamp Glue Station

A funny thing happened tonight as I was on www.lumberjocks.com website I realized that I was given a Daily top 3 award for this project and I didn’t even know it.

I made this station while I was very busy building and working on my Craft Beer flight blog series and to be honest I threw it together in an hour, took few pictures and moved on.

This is the 7th award I have received in 2018 and I have posted links to all things pertaining to its construction, including free project plans below.

Thanks Lumberjocks.com

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Click for details: Pipe Clamp Glue Jig
 
Here is a bigger image of the completed station. Its very versatile and it can be completely broken down and stored away when not in use.

Here is a bigger image of the completed station. Its very versatile and it can be completely broken down and stored away when not in use.

Craft Beer Flight : Part 6

Today was all about prepping for finish and applying finish to the flights. I chose to use a Oil based Polyurethane finish because of its properties to protect from moisture since we are adding beer glasses into the mix.

TODAY’S ACTIVITIES INCLUDED

  • Finish Sanding

  • Prep for finish

  • Before & After

FINISH SANDING

So before I could head into applying the first coat of the finish I needed to smooth all surfaces down so I used my miscellaneous sanding equipment which included:

  • Belt & Disc Sander

  • Random Orbital sander

  • Oscillating spindle sander

I used all these machines to get every surface smooth to about 320 grit.

I used Varathane Oil Based poly on the flights, I usually thin this out but because I need all the protective properties I didn’t this time.

I used Varathane Oil Based poly on the flights, I usually thin this out but because I need all the protective properties I didn’t this time.

Here are both styles of flights all sanded I have to say that I really love both and especially love all the contrasting woods I used.

Here are both styles of flights all sanded I have to say that I really love both and especially love all the contrasting woods I used.

Here is a close up the Maple & Sapele style

Here is a close up the Maple & Sapele style

Here is the other style of flight with Sapele, Maple & Walnut

Here is the other style of flight with Sapele, Maple & Walnut

PREP FOR FINISH

So now that all my sanding was completed I needed to ready my work bench for some finishing work. I made my own finishing stands as the store bought ones were a little expensive, so I used some scrap plywood and and screws. They are super easy to make and whats also handy about them is that you can make a lot of different sized stands and they can be stacked as well. I have put some pictures below.

Here is a few stacked, makes storage easy. As you can see on one I have screws protruding through the top, this is what your work piece sits on while applying the finish.

Here is a few stacked, makes storage easy. As you can see on one I have screws protruding through the top, this is what your work piece sits on while applying the finish.

Here is the top side of the stand, I used a forstner bit to drill a recess into the top that way the screw protrudes and allows each stand to sit onto each other.

Here is the top side of the stand, I used a forstner bit to drill a recess into the top that way the screw protrudes and allows each stand to sit onto each other.

Here are the stands in action, these are cheap and can be batched out how many you need and all you need is some scrap plywood and screws.

Here are the stands in action, these are cheap and can be batched out how many you need and all you need is some scrap plywood and screws.

Next I needed to lay out all my flights onto their respective stands and go about applying the finish, as I said before I used an oil base polyurethane but I also used a foam disposable brush as I feel I get really nice finish using them.

Here are all the flights laid out on the rosin paper that I use to protect the work surface.

Here are all the flights laid out on the rosin paper that I use to protect the work surface.

BEFORE & AFTER FINISH

Next I needed to add the finish and below you can see a few before and after pictures of the flights.

Before Finish

Before Finish

After finish , although the finish is still wet in this picture I really like how the finish brings the flight to life. I will probably use 2/3 coats sanding between each coat.

After finish, although the finish is still wet in this picture I really like how the finish brings the flight to life. I will probably use 2/3 coats sanding between each coat.


BEFORE FINISH

BEFORE FINISH

AFTER FINISH  WOW… the finish as you can probably tell is still wet but really love the 3 contrasting woods especially the Sapelle on the outside edges.

AFTER FINISH WOW… the finish as you can probably tell is still wet but really love the 3 contrasting woods especially the Sapelle on the outside edges.


Here is the how I left the flights today.

Here is the how I left the flights today.

NEXT

  • I need to apply at least one more coat of poly and then I need to determine whether to add any more coats, I don’t want the wood to feel like plastic

  • Then they will be ready for sale.

Well that’s all I have for today, to be honest I am not going to document every coat I apply to the flights so the next post regarding this project will be the wrap up post, until then

Take Care & Thanks for reading

PS: I do need to start my monthly newsletter for November so if you would like to be added to the subscribers list please click here

CRAFT BEER FLIGHT : PART 5

So today I got a little done, wasn’t a very busy day because of the glue-up.

TODAY’S ACTIVITIES INCLUDED :

  • Finished putting the dadoes in the flights.

  • The Glue-up

DADOES

I finally finished putting all the dadoes in the bottom sides of the flights. As I did previously I put a 1/2” dado stack into the table saw and raised it 1/4” high. Below is a picture of the finished flights, now that all joinery is cut so as that I glue in the sides and then its on to the glue up.

So all the flights are made all 9 of them.

So all the flights are made all 9 of them.

THE GLUE-UP

The glue-up was a lot of fun trying to figure out how I was going to glue up 9 flights at the same time with only 13 clamps. The glue-up consisted of just attaching the two feet into the dadoes I just cut.

My solution was to use the jig that I had just made for the pipe clamps . I used a brace across the pipe clamps that way I could clamp 2 flights back to back and only use 4 clamps for the bottom feet of the flight, then I used the rest of the clamps to secure the tops of the flights, its very complicated but here are some pictures to clarify.


Here you can see the pipe clamp jig with the braces stretching across all the flights, this way I could save on clamps and 2 separate clamps across both feet instead of using individual clamps for each foot.

Here you can see the pipe clamp jig with the braces stretching across all the flights, this way I could save on clamps and 2 separate clamps across both feet instead of using individual clamps for each foot.

Here is a closer look at the top clamps securing the front feet and bottom brace can support the back feet

Here is a closer look at the top clamps securing the front feet and bottom brace can support the back feet

Another close up picture

Another close up picture

This clamping jig is really versatile otherwise I would have needed to buy a boat load clamps, I could fit 4 flights this way and the other 5 were clamped elsewhere using the back to back method.

NEXT…

  • I need to do one more finishing sanding and wipe them down

  • Finally I need to apply a couple coats of oil based Polyurethane.

Craft Beer Flight : Part 4

As I mentioned in the last part I had basically made 1 beer flight and today had a lot of rinse and repeat, and I am a man of my word. But there was also some other steps that I had started and will finish tomorrow.

TODAY’S ACTIVITIES INCLUDED:

  • Finish cutting all the glass holes

  • More Router Time

  • Oscillating Spindle Sander Time

  • More Sanding, but with my orbital sander

  • Creating the dadoes

CUTTING HOLES

Since I had only cut all the holes in 1 of the 9 flights I had to finish cutting all them holes. Nothing really new here as I documented this step in a previous part. Every Flight was to receive four 2” wide holes for the 5 Oz glasses to fit into. So it was back to the drill press to batch out this step. I did do one thing different and that was I gang cut two flight tops at a time. But to be honest I don’t think it was any faster because cutting two at a time seemed to bog down my little bench-top drill press and cant honestly say it was any faster.

Here is me starting to cut out the holes, it hadn’t dawned on me to start gang cutting them together yet.

Here is me starting to cut out the holes, it hadn’t dawned on me to start gang cutting them together yet.

After finishing all the hole cutting I had these little disc that I thought looked awesome and didn’t want to throw them away, not sure what to use them for YET!!!

After finishing all the hole cutting I had these little disc that I thought looked awesome and didn’t want to throw them away, not sure what to use them for YET!!!

Here is all the holes finished, next I needed to bring all these piece to the router table. This picture is of the maple and Sapele flights.

Here is all the holes finished, next I needed to bring all these piece to the router table. This picture is of the maple and Sapele flights.

Here is the other style, I was very careful to match all pieces in order of me cutting them so as that the grain matched on the whole piece once glued up.

Here is the other style, I was very careful to match all pieces in order of me cutting them so as that the grain matched on the whole piece once glued up.

ROUTER TIME

As I also did in a previous step I ran the flight parts through a 1/4” round-over profile bit in the router, I like the look of round-overs and they also feel great to the touch. I spent a decent amount of time doing this as I needed to do 8 flight with 3 parts that is a lot of routing, but they did come out awesome.

Here is a picture of the flight top and I used to round-over the inside edges of the holes and I also rounded over the top face of the flight.

Here is a picture of the flight top and I used to round-over the inside edges of the holes and I also rounded over the top face of the flight.

This picture shows all pieces after the round-over has been applied to the edges.Next is sanding

This picture shows all pieces after the round-over has been applied to the edges.Next is sanding

Here is a close-up of the top with the round-over profile applied.

Here is a close-up of the top with the round-over profile applied.

Here is what the sides look like with the round-over applied.

Here is what the sides look like with the round-over applied.

OSCILLATING SANDER TIME

Now that I have completed all the router work on all the pieces it was time to get rid of the tool marks left behind by the router bit, to get all the curves I used my spindle sander and this is an awesome tool, its not a multi-function tool but all the same it is very good at sanding all them circular shapes in the wood and it will takes the finishing touches up a notch.

Here is my WEN Oscillating Spindle Sander, this tool is a real joy to use, I used my 1” diameter sanding sleeve to get into all the curves, I could have used a 2” sanding sleeve but didn’t want to replaced all the sleeves as that would have been time consuming, anyway the narrower diameter fit very well into all the curves I had.

Here is my WEN Oscillating Spindle Sander, this tool is a real joy to use, I used my 1” diameter sanding sleeve to get into all the curves, I could have used a 2” sanding sleeve but didn’t want to replaced all the sleeves as that would have been time consuming, anyway the narrower diameter fit very well into all the curves I had.

MORE SANDING:ORBITAL SANDER

Now that all the curves were sanded it was time to sand all the faces and edges of the parts and to do that I used my orbital sander on a non-slip mat because most of the part’s were very small and I needed to keep them stationary. I started with 100 grit sandpaper on the sander and finished with 320 grit and all the parts were very smooth to the touch.

Here is a image of my sander and the non slip router mat but I use almost all the time when I need to sand something that is very small and clamps and vises are not the best options to hold down the work-piece

Here is a image of my sander and the non slip router mat but I use almost all the time when I need to sand something that is very small and clamps and vises are not the best options to hold down the work-piece

DADO TIME

Now this is a step that I didnt do before and that is creating the dado groove to receive the feet on the under side of the flight top.

I put a 1/2” wide dado stack into my table-saw and raised it to a 1/4” high as that was the depth of the dado, I measured 1/2” from each side so as that when the glasses were in place they didn’t interfere with the feet or sides.

Here you can see the feet sitting in the dado I just cut, the dado groove runs the entire width of the flight, I have to say that it looks great for a simple joint and it is also extremely strong.

Here you can see the feet sitting in the dado I just cut, the dado groove runs the entire width of the flight, I have to say that it looks great for a simple joint and it is also extremely strong.

Here is a close-up of the dado joint, fits like a glove.

Here is a close-up of the dado joint, fits like a glove.

Here is where I leave it for today, this is a picture of one of the flights done, just need to be glued up.

Here is how I left 1 of the flights , tomorrow more rinse and repeat.

Here is how I left 1 of the flights , tomorrow more rinse and repeat.

That is where I leave it for today.

NEXT:

  • Finish cutting all the dadoes

  • The Glue up

  • Applying the finish.

Thanks for reading and I will catch you next time.

Craft Beer Flight : Part 3

So this morning I had a pretty productive day until my drill press broke but I fixed it. I had a decent amount of work to do but only had half the time I usually have, but I still declare it as a productive morning.’

TODAY’S ACTIVITIES INCLUDED

  • Finished some surface Sanding

  • Cut parts to size

  • Some Layout

  • Drill Press Time

  • Crisis

  • Holes all cut

  • A little routering

  • Happy so far

SANDING

After doing all the hand planing yesterday I had very little to do with my random orbital sander, I started with 120 grit paper and finished with 320 grit and I was very happy with the feel of the wood. After all the events of the past two days of gluing up and ripping wood I now finally have 3 lengths of wood that I can now turn into 2 styles of flight.

Below you can see the lengths of wood all ready to be chopped into individual flights.

Here ate the 3 pieces of wood all ready to be chopped up.

Here ate the 3 pieces of wood all ready to be chopped up.

Here is the soft Maple & Sapele wood style

Here is the soft Maple & Sapele wood style

Here is the Soft Maple, Sapele & Walnut style.

Here is the Soft Maple, Sapele & Walnut style.

CUT PARTS TO SIZE

Using my plans I cut all the pieces to final length and made sure to cut the pieces in sequence so as that grain wrapped all around the flight adding that little visual interest if someone was looking at it closely.

I set up my miter station so as that I didn’t have to measure the work-piece every-time I needed to cut it. So I made some pre-dimensioned spaces to use for each size cut.

Here is the work-piece on my chop saw with the spacer, there was a decent amount of cuts and they all came out exactly as I wanted.

Here is the work-piece on my chop saw with the spacer, there was a decent amount of cuts and they all came out exactly as I wanted.

Here is a close-up of the spacer.

Here is a close-up of the spacer.

Here are the 3 parts came out the exact dimensions I wanted.

Here are the 3 parts came out the exact dimensions I wanted.

SOME LAYOUT

I needed to do a little layout on the parts mainly because I was cutting so many holes in the 3 parts and I needed to make sure all the cuts were in the right places.

Using my 3D plans I used this to determine where to make my layout marks especially on this piece as there is 3 half-circles to be cut.

Using my 3D plans I used this to determine where to make my layout marks especially on this piece as there is 3 half-circles to be cut.

I used my combination square to mark the center points of where the holes that would hold the glasses were to be cut.

I used my combination square to mark the center points of where the holes that would hold the glasses were to be cut.

DRILL PRESS TIME

Most of the cutting and shaping in this project will be done on my bench-top drill press using 3 different diameter hole saws, doing half-circles on the bench-top cause a few problems which I encounter and also their solutions

  • Make difficult cuts on a small sized work-pieces

    My solution to this problem was to enclose the work-piece on all sides so as that that both sides of the half cut were supported and didn’t pop out and also very importantly was my fingers were no where near the cutting edges of the hole-saws.

  • Keeping the parts orientation the same on all parts while cutting

    I used a system of little fences surrounding the work-piece so as that the work-piece didn’t move while I was cutting out the 1” diameter half circle

Here you can see how I surrounded the work-pieces I used scrap wood and double sided tape to secure the pieces. Worked great

Here you can see how I surrounded the work-pieces I used scrap wood and double sided tape to secure the pieces. Worked great

Here is an image of me starting to cut the large glass holder holes.

Here is an image of me starting to cut the large glass holder holes.

  • Obstacle using the hole saw.

    One of the problems that I encountered using the hole saw was that the hole saw had a drill bit centered inside the hole saw and that proved difficult in centering the hole saw on the work-piece, but what I didn’t realize was that it could be removed. You can see the drill bit in the hole saw below.

As you can the drill bit in the center of the hole saw is there to make sure that cut is centered, but was easily fixed as it unscrewed from the saw.

As you can the drill bit in the center of the hole saw is there to make sure that cut is centered, but was easily fixed as it unscrewed from the saw.

CRISIS

Right when I started cutting the little side holes my drill press had broken, the entire chuck came off the drill press, but it was an easy fix after watching some YouTube video I had it fixed in under a half an hour. I think what happened was that the chuck was never properly seated on the arbor so I tapped the whole chuck onto the arbor and so far I have not encountered any problems, below you can see the chuck still attached to the hole saw.

Here is the chuck, thank god for YouTube and some quick thinking on my part.

Here is the chuck, thank god for YouTube and some quick thinking on my part.

HOLES ALL CUT

After most of the morning cutting holes and layout all six of my beer flights have sides completed I need to finish cutting all the glass holder holes . But as you see below they look pretty good. I did get a little tear out on the big holes but I cleaned all that up on my spindle sander. In my next step I will also add them through the router with a round-over bit and that will clean them up even more. There are some pictures below

Here is the top before finish sanding

Here is the top before finish sanding

Here are all the parts before I got to sand them, I used my spindle sander to clean them up.

Here are all the parts before I got to sand them, I used my spindle sander to clean them up.

ROUTER TIME

I wanted to add a little profile to all the edges as I think it gives them that polished look and a nice professional look. So I used my trusty router table and 1/4” round-over bit and routered most of the edges of the pieces. I needed to be very careful with the small side feet as it wouldn’t take much to blow out a piece of the sides.

Below you can see the finished profiled edges.

Before routing

Before routing

After Routing,

After Routing,

Here are all 3 pieces routered and I have to say look great, I also added the same profile to the top side of the large flight piece but I didn’t do the bottom face as I will need to add a dado groove in there next.

Here are all 3 pieces routered and I have to say look great, I also added the same profile to the top side of the large flight piece but I didn’t do the bottom face as I will need to add a dado groove in there next.

Here is a closer look at the profiled edge on the top piece.

Here is a closer look at the profiled edge on the top piece.

ALMOST DONE, BUT NOT QUITE YET

Although I still have to glue the legs in and cut the dado grooves on the underside of the top I needed to see what they look like all assembled , I also needed to make sure that the glasses all fit, so here are some images of them pre-assembly

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So that is what I got done today, I still have a good bit of repetitive work as I am making 6 of these. But so far so good.

NEXT

  • Cut Dado grooves on the underside of the top so as that I can glue the feet on.

  • Rinse & Repeat on the other 6-8 Flights

  • Apply finish