For the next week I am on vacation and will have limited resources so I will see you when I get back , next week.
For the next week I am on vacation and will have limited resources so I will see you when I get back , next week.
After a week of fleeting moments in the shop I have finally finished the drill press cart and I have to say that it looks awesome and even more importantly that that it makes more room and floor space available in that ugly corner of my shop.
Since this was a shop project I didn't use any fancy joinery for the case I simply used pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws to join the case parts together along with glue.
If you would like to make this cart , I have plans available in my shop.
Until next time take care.
Last night a finished the cart and to be honest it was the most fun I had on this entire project because I made my own drawer pulls which is something I never did before. I used the solid ash that I purchased on that road trip I made last week and I am so glad that I made these pulls because I think I made a total of 25 pulls and it only cost me $6.. but there was a good beat of work needed to make them.
Since I never made drawer pulls before I used my 3D Modeling software call Sketchup to draw up a scaled model from which to work from. Below is that model.
I had a piece of 1"X 6" X 30" of ash that I needed to rip into 1-1/4" wide strips, this is how high my drawer pulls would be since that was pretty uneventful I didn't take any pictures.
The bulk of machining was on the router table, I purchased a new set of router bits that I was dying to use and here was my perfect project to use them on. Now that I had my 30" long blank I figured I could make 5 pulls per strip so everything that I am writing about I repeated 5 times for all the pulls.
I used 3 router bits in making this pull
I purchased the Kreg jig to install the drawer pulls that way they would all be unifrom on the cabinet, to be honest I usually make my own jigs for this type of project but I got this on sale and thought that I would try it out, thinking that it would remove all the work out of placing them on the false fronts and to a degree it did. But I still needed to do a little measuring to center the pulls. To be honest I didn't read all the instructions for the jig I kind of just opened the pack and started using it.
That's a wrap I hope you have enjoyed this project with me, please feel free to leave any comments or comments on the project, I am thinking about making plans avavilavle for this project but I have not decided yet.
I am in the final stretch of this project and cant wait to start using the cart, there is so much storage in this cabinet that it will free up a huge drawer in my miter saw station. This post might wander a little bit because I am going to write about my old unit that I am replacing, I also found a different concept for attach the casters and why I like it.
Since casters are on the expensive side I decided that I would use the casters on the unit that I am replacing, the casters are 3" but they provide 4" up from the ground, they are lockable and they can be turned in any direction as they have 360 degrees roatating ability.
So now that I have the used casters off the old cart I am ready to attach them to the new cart and I am doing it differently than I have in the past.
Instead of using lag bolts / nuts / washers to attach the casters I am using hex head sheet metal screws and washers and the reason I am using these is because I don't need to drill through holes on the vases of what I make and I can secure them in the plywood as they don't protrude through the other side. Then attaching them is very easy I just attached a hex head socket bit in my drill and screwed them home.
All that was left was for me to finish off the top and all I needed to do was roundover the edges with my palm router and apply a couple coats of finish on the top where the drill press would be stationed.
The cabinet is almost finished all that's needed now is the drawer pulls that I am going to try and make, I have never made drawer pulls before and I am in the process of designing them on my Sketchup program
Until next time , take care
So things have been very crazy and I have not gotten down to the shop in a day or so , please remember that if you undertake this project it will not take almost a week to complete, I might only get 1-2 hours at a time in the shop , this project should only take a weekend in the shop to complete.
Making the top is very straight forward thanks to the pocket holes, all it takes is a plywood panel cut to size and some hardwood. Here are the steps I took making the top
The last couple of days I have been applying several coats of polycrylic to the drawer fronts and cabinet so today it was time to attach them to the cabinet drawers themselves.
Here are the steps I took to attaching them.
Until then take care
I am starting to see the end of the project as the whole cabinet is built and the drawers are attached, here is what I did today.
When I was cutting up the 4x8 panel I put a piece aside so as that I could cut all my false fronts in sequence so as that I could keep the grain pattern on the plywood inline to add a finished touch on the front of the cart, its the little things that make a project pop.
I own one of the Grrippers which is basically a expensive push stick but it has so many cool features that make table-saw work more safe, so I have been wanting to cut very thin strips for various applications and Microjig the manufacturer of the Grripper have accesories to add to your tool that allow so many applications.
So I got the 1/8" leg attachment, it basically allows you to rip 1/8" think stock and have it fully supported through the saw blade it also reduces saw burn on the work-piece which reduces the need to sand it it
If you would like to read more about this accessory click the link below.
I thought that it would be easier to apply the finish to the false fronts and the cabinet now rather than waiting until the project was finished. For shop projects my go to finish is usually Minwax Polycrylic, I like this finish because its supper easy to apply with a foam brush and is extremely durable for a workshop, it also is good in my opinion at keeping dust away and if it does get dusty a simply damp rag will clean it up nice.
I also usually use props to raise whatever I am finishing up from the bench by putting the work-piece on Painters tripods seen below, but I ran out of them so I made my own quick and dirty using a simple square piece of plywood and put a screw through it.
So I covered my workbench in rosin paper to protect it from drips and dust getting onto my drawer fronts nad Istarted applying the finish, I will be applying a total of 3 coats sanding in between with 220 grit sandpaper.
The top is extremely easy to make, I am still using pocket holes to attach everything. The top is basically a piece of plywood cut to size and and edge banded with some solid ash covering all the plywood edges. The edgebanding give the top a nice thick look but in effect it is only 3/4" thick.
Lately I have really wanted to purchase some real wood and not the stuff Home Depot passes as wood, I just wanted to see what was around me as far as suppliers were. Lately I have been really wishing that I could mill my own wood but since I don't own a thickness planer or a joiner and cant afford them that task seems very far away. So I needed a place that had a good selection of wood and not cost an arm and a leg to dress them for me.
I found a place near me in Avon,MA that I thought was worth a visit and its name is Barney & Carey, so I took my son and went visit it.
I was not disappointed they have a decent selection of hardwoods, moldings and cabinet grade plywood including Baltic birch, their prices seemed about market price no higher or lower, but what I really liked was that they were very reasonable as far as their milling services. Its definitely not the biggest supplier but they have some really nice lumber both rough and dressed (meaning S4S). I took a few pictures and you can also click the link to their website.
As a token of my visit I purchased a piece of 1x6 ASH so as that I can use it on my current drill press cart project.
So today I finished installing the drawers all five of them... Below are the steps I took to install them.
I am using full extension drawer slides and like any drawer slide they have two parts, one part goes into the cabinet and the other part attaches to the drawer. In order to make sure that the drawer slides are alighned on both sides of the cabinet I needed to use a spacer block so as that the both sides of the drawer were patrallel with each other otherwise the drawer would not go in.
Since I already installed the lower drawer I started working on the right side of the cabinet, which meant I needed to place the spacer block on top of the last drawer slide I attached and placed the drawer slides one after the other in this way, the pictures below will demonstrate what I did.
I needed to repeat what I did on the left side, what I just did on the right using the spacer block to make sure both sides of the cabinet were parallel with each other, otherwise the drawer would not line up with the drawer slides.
Now that all drawer slides were attached to the cabinet it was time to attach them to the drawers themselves, so to do this I put a 3/4" thick spacer strip on top of the last drawer that was previously installed and laid the 3/4" thick spacer on top and then placed the next drawer ... I am using a 3/4' spacer to allow room for me to add the false fronts later. While the drawer was sitting on the spacer block i pulled the drawer out and attached 2 of 3 screws to attach the drawer to the slides, I later pulled out the drawer all the way to put the final 3rd screw at the back of the drawer.
I used this method all the way up the cabinet until the top drawer was installed.
The previous step completed me attaching the drawers to the cabinet and they work awesome I really like the full extension slides as they allow you access to the whole 22" length of the drawer.
Below are some pictures of the installed drawers.
Since I had already built the drawer frames all I needed to do today was to add the drawer bottoms.
I needed to make 5 drawer bases so as that I could attach them to the drawer frames. So I took the following steps to complete the drawers. I have detailed pictures below detailing each step of this.
2. Now that all 5 drawer bottoms were cut to size , next I wanted to draw a reference line 1/2" in from all sides of the panel, to drive brad nails in the bottom securing them to the bottom of the drawer, I used my Incra T-Ruler to accomplish this, I needed the brad nails inset a 1/2" because I need to use my router on the edges more about this in a later step.
3. Next I needed to set -up my assembly table to secure the bases to the drawers, below you see what I needed. I used my pneumatic nailer with staples inside, some glue. Using the 1/2" line that I did in the previous step I used the arrow on the tip of my brad nailer to reference where the nails would be entering the drawer being careful not to actually shoot a nail through the actual drawer base.
4 . Before I can say the drawers are finished I needed to use my palm router to add a chamfer to the plywood edges. I saw this trick used online and I think it is a very clever method to hide the plywood edges on drawers. You basically use a chamfer bit in a router and go around all edges of the plywood drawer base and it removes the material that can be seen when the drawer is sitting in the cabinet or unit. Oh and I almost forgot to tell you that the brad nails were recessed because I didn't want my router catching the nails as I removing the plywood edges when I was going around the drawer base with my router.
Although I didn't have enough time to install all drawers I wanted to at least install one. To my surprise the bottom drawer was a tiny bit shy (short) of engaging the right drawer slide , so I needed to remedy this by installing a shim to close the gap.
That is as far as I got this morning thanks for reading and I catch you on the next post.
This morning I got busy finishing up the cabinet carcass by installing the back. After that I turned my attentions to start making the 5 drawers.
To get started with wrapping up the cabinet carcass I needed to rip a 1/4" thick sheet of plywood to its final dimensions, after that was done I lay it on the back of the cabinet and drew a reference line 3/8" for the outside edge so I cut center my screws used to secure the back panel, which adds a lot of rigidity, then added glue to the back of the cabinet carcass and started screwing the panel in place, I also left the panel a little oversize so as that I could flush trim the panel to the cabinet, this is just a little trick I picked up if the cabinet is not 100% square.
I didn't have enough time to complete the drawers but I did make all 5 drawer frames I will need to come back and add the bases to them.
There are 5 drawers in total and there are 3 different sizes to them. The drawer construction is very basic using only pocket holes and glue and securing the bases with glue and brad nails. I found this concept online on I like to Make Stuff.com and it makes for a quick drawer assembly with very little fuss about joinery, perfect for a shop project.
Following my cut-list I cut all the drawer parts to size on the table-saw, then using my crosscut sled I cut them to final size
Now that all my drawers front,backs & sides are all cut I needed to add pocket holes to join the box together, I only placed pocket holes on the front and back of the drawer as they would be covered with drawer false fronts later, these fronts and back would be screwed into the sides of the drawer.
I am almost ready to start gluing up and assembling the drawer frames but before I do I need to make sure that everything is at right angles to each other or square, so to do this I do two things I take diagonal measurements and if they are the same then I know they're square, I also use a machinest square in the corners and make sure they are also at right angles.
Since there are no fancy joinery techniques being used on this assembly I basically make the drawer my placing the front / back pieces in between each of the sides, use some clamps to tighten things up after applying glue to the edges of the front / back of the darwer and screw the 1-1/4" pocket hole screws into the screw hole I had already prepared.
The drawer boxes are all complete I just need to add the bases to them, below you can see all five drawers assembled and I will return to them when I get a chance.
Today I went out shopping for most of the materials I needed for the build which included.
Using my plans , I used my table-saw with a brand new 80 tooth blade to cut the sides, top and bottom pieces to size. Having a new blade in the table-saw left me with a beautiful edge to the birch plywood. So i laid them out on my out-feed table and used blue tape to label them and to orient them in the way I wanted them to be on the final cabinet. I like using this method because when you are done you just peel the table and don't have to worry about sanding out pencil marks.
The main method of joinery in this project is pocket hole screws and the way the cabinet is designed the base is very important because all the screws will be added on the bottom side of the base that way you don't see the screws. I used my Kreg pocket hole jig to accomplish but more about that later.
The base will side inside the left & right sides and I will be running 5 pocket screws from either side of the base, Sorry that I didn't take any pictures of the finished base after the pocket holes have been inserted but I will come back and edit the pictures when I am back in the shop.
I spaced the pocket holes 1" from each end of the base and then every 5 inches, I also added glue to strengthen the butt joint. Below are some pictures of me using my pockwet hole jig in inserting the pocket holes.
Before I move on to the next phase of the project I wanted to show you my pocket hole station and you use it.My version of the Kreg pocket hole jig is the K4 there are other versions of the jig one cheaper and another more expensive
My workstation has 2 main functions
I made my station out of 3/4" plywood scrap I had lying around, I built two compartments into it that lets me store all my Kreg clamps and screws
Below are several pictures of the jig itself housed on the workstation I made.
So now that my main pieces of the cabinet were prepared and the base has its pocket holes its time to screw these parts together.
I basically set the base in between the left & right sides (as if the cabinet was resting on its back and the base was vertical) and using some clamps to keep things aligned and making sure that everything was square I added glue to the left and right sides of the base , tightened the clamps and screwed the locket hole screws home.
Below you can see an image of where the clamps need to be
In order to keep everything square before actually adding the top , I needed to add 2 cleats on the front & back of the cabinet, making sure that the cleats are flush to the top, front & back of the cabinet and again I am using pocket hole screws to secure them to the cabinet, these cleats also gives a place to secure the top once that is made.
So that is as far as I got, the main body of the carcass is almost complete, I still need to add the plywood back which I will do next.
Until next time take care
I have been so busy making projects for around the house it’s time to turn my attentions back to the shop and specifically my drill press setup.
My drill press is currently housed on a very big cart that I used to have other benchtop tools on but I have found other homes for them and now I want to downsize the cart
so I have been designing with help from online research a mobile cart just for the drill press and all the accessories I have for it.
This weekend I took a little road trip out to visit Tom McLaughlin at Epic Woodworking in Canterbury, NH.
Epic Woodworking has both On site Classes & Online Classes whether you are a beginner or a more experienced woodworker Epic Woodworking has a course for you, that Tom teaches.
The whole reason for my trip was to have a class with Tom McLaughlin as our host and the topic of discussion was a very informal visit to his shop to talk about how he made The Tilt Top Table that was featured on his TV show “Rough Cut with Fine Woodworking”
Here you can see the Tilt Top Table assembled
Here is Tom demonstrating the table in tilted position
Below are a couple of pictures and video of Tom demonstrating how he made some of the components that made up the table
I would just like to Thank Tom for a wonderful day and I learnt so much just being in his shop with him showing you all the techniques that you can use in any project, he is extremely friendly and knowledgeable. I think some of his best traits is that he is extremely approachable and no question is too dumb.
What was a little funny was that Tom showed us the project that he made for the episode of Rough Cut & Fine Woodworking that was airing on the day that we were in his shop, the project was a Contemporary Table lamp that he made with special guest Chris Becksvoort if you want to look at the show click here
If you would like to learn more about Epic Woodworking I have placed links below to his social media sites, as well as his website.
I have just completed the woodworking project plans for the Room Divider and are avaiable in my shop. These plans are extremely details and the Room Divider boasts the following:
If you are looking for a Room Divider to separate two living spaces that has style and functionality then this room divider complete woodworking plans are for you.
The Room Divider has a one of kind herringbone wooden pattern on the front and also has a cork-board and chalkboard surfaces on the back, ideal for hanging notices or writing weekly family notes on the back side. Since I have 2 young children it works great for hanging all their school art or perfect for hanging seasonal card such as Christmas or Thanksgiving. If you are a work from home parent which is why I made it, the herringbone wood pattern makes for a eye catching backdrop to them conference & video calls that never seem to stop occurring.
When I first started woodworking and even sometimes now I was very confused with a lot of the terms and definitions used by lumber suppliers.
If you ever visit a lumber supplier either by going to the internet and visiting a supplier in person they used terms such as Board Foot, S4S and then there is the whole wood grading system, it left me feeling very bewildered and out of my depth, so I decided to start this little project on demystifying this whole subject, because if I felt like that others probably did too.
I have included some charts in here and I am working on making a downloadable PDF that you can print and take with you.
So today I finished the table and gave it to my son and he absolutely loved it, I needed to finish a couple of things on the table before I could give it to him.
I needed to round-over all the sharp edges on the table because I didn't want my son to scratch himself. So I usede my palm router with a round-over bit to take care of this.
Using my random orbital sander I sanded the whole unit from 800 grit to 220 grit and it is very smooth and more importantly kid friendly.
I just wanted to let you all know that I fixed the plans for this project and they are free to download, please visit my shop for the plans!!!!
Just a quick note about the free plans although I am not charging anything for the plans I would greatly appreciate and donation that you can send as it keeps my projects and website content coming.
This morning I basically finished construction on the water table, all that I needed to do was build and attach the bottom shelf, but there was a lot more to that part than anything so far here is what I needed to do.
First I needed take all my 1x3 and cut them to size on my miter saw station, using a stop block on the chop saw to cut all 16 pieces to final size, below you can see a picture of my miter saw.
So now that I have all my slats cut I wanted to bury the screws beneath the surface of the wood, I was adding 4 screws per slat so that was a lot of holes to drill so I brought all the slats over to the drill press and using my home made drill press table I set up another stop block and prepared the countersinking bit for a lot of repetitive cuts.
I needed to determine what the spacing was for each slat so I lay out all the slats and experimented with the best spacing and I arrived at using a 3/4" space between each of the slats, you will end up with a slight larger space on the second-last slat from the end maybe 7/8" but I was OK with that.
I was very excited for this step because I recently purchased a new Router from Bosch and I had only installed it in my router table last night so today was the first time I used it, and it didn't disappoint. Anyway I installed a round-over bit in the router as I was using it to apply a profile around 3 edges of each slat and it came out great, took any sharp edges and turned them into soft rounded edges, a necessity for anything that you make for children.
So now that all the slats were milled it was ready to secure them to the frame, I used Titebond wood glue and 1 1/4" exterior screws to secure the slats in position. I used a 3/4" thick piece of wood as a spacer and just glued and screwed each piece until the shelf was finished. After the slats were installed I sanded the shelf with 220 grit sand paper in my orbital sander.
Now that the bottom shelf is complete I needed to attach it to the legs, because the bottom shelf fits inside the legs and screwed, I needed to devise a method of resting the bottom shelf assembly in place to screw into the screws. So to achieve this I cut spacers to act as ledges for the shelf to rest on temporarily and screw them home.
Below are the pictures depicting the method I used, pictures are always vetter at describing something than words so here you are, please remember that the table is upside down in these pictures.
Adding the bottom shelf completed the build phase of this project and it looks great, I still need to sand the whole unit down to 220 grit sandpaper, I was going to paint the unit but because it is pressure treated it doesnt take kindly to paint as the wood is still very moist and probably will remain that way for some weeks/months.
Below are some of the pictures of the unit completely assembled and it looks great
While making the bottom shelf this morning I came across a error in the plans that I need to change, Once I have amended the plans I will post the project back on my shop.
Sorry for any inconvenience
After working on projects for the Home Office over the last couple of months I decided to turn my attentions to my 5 year old son, he has been waiting patiently for a new water table. He had a plastic one last summer that has been around for years and it fell apart on him, so I decided to make him.
I came across this project online and the plans were already made for it so I decided to make it for him. I came across it on Ana White.com and she has plans available for it, I really like this design as it is very simple and anybody can make it with very little tools and/or experience. I also like the shelf on the bottom that you can store all the toys that come with having little ones that play on the deck.
Materials needed for this build are
The top frame consisted of 2 pieces of the 1x6 for the front and back of the top frame, 2 sides of 1x6 and a center divider that divides the top frame up so as that the containers can fit inside, you need to very precise or the containers will not fit. I used glue and screws to secure the sides to the front and back pieces.
The bottom frame is very like the construction off the top frame , except the boards are smaller and there is no center divider, this part is what forms the frame for the bottom shelf, I will be adding slats across the frame and securing it under the top frame. I used the same joinery method of butt joints and secured screws throught the sides into the ends of the front and back pieces.
The plans call for 1x3's to be used for the legs, 2 legs are positioned on the front and back. I also added a little taper on the inside of each of the legs to add some visual appeal, I used my jigsaw and just gang cut two at a time.
The legs are then secured into the top frame , I forgot to mention every screw that I have inserted into this build so far and going forward will be counter-sunked so as that you cant see them. In the past I have plugged holes that I have inserted screws into but I am not going through this process anymore as they eventually fall out because of the weather we get up here in the North East.