After tons of research online and help from my LJ’s buddies I designed my own box joint jig for a router table without a sliding mortise track..

This project took much longer than I thought because of the minute adjustments I had to make in the jigs final position and secure the cleat.. But it’s done and the fingers are a little loose but they fit together like a dream with just enough real estate to glue up a joint…

The basic design is ” L” form with a cleat that overhangs the table to slide it though the straight bit.

I had some leftover poplar so I used that and I also had 1/2” square dowel left so I used that as the key…

Because I cut a Chanel all the though the jig I supported the back with some scrap plywood L brackets held together with glue and pocket joinery … And the back of the jig where the channel comes out of the jig I placed a scrap piece of plywood to keep the jig square to the table and cutting bit…

I’m delighted with the results and it didn’t cost me much




So I finished my big project and needed something to keep me busy so I scoured the internet and my workshop to do list and high on there was a Router Circle Cutting Jig and I needed to use some scrap plywood I had left over.

So I came across so many variation online and thanks to the input of my fellow LJ,s I used what they suggested and came up with my own.

1. I needed a jig that had multiple pivot point this Jig can cut a radius of up to 19”
2. I wasn’t sure whether to use my palm router which I love or use my plunge router.. I decided to use my plunge router for the simple reason of controlling my depth of cut

9” wide x 24” long plywood and that’s basically it

The jig came out awesome except I need to figure out why I’m loosing a strong 1/16” on my radius and I think it’s because I only used a nail as my pivot pin I think I’m going to get a 1/4” clevis pin and make my pivot holes 1/4” wide thus removing any play in the pivot swing.

The other thing that annoyed me was that I somehow lost the depth gauge on my router as it’s been buried in my router table so I need to replace that only my local Craftsman store just went out of business..

Anyway I hope you like it and give it a try .. I took my sweet time making it One more thing all the pivots start at 4” radius an increase on the 1” all the way to 19” radius



I made this crosscut sled in 2015 and I hope to be replacing it soon.

Its a very basic design and it weighs a lot, which is one of the reason I want to remake it.

Like any crosscut sled made for a tablesaw:

it has a base which has runners screwed up into the base to guide it along the miter track in your tabelsaw. 

A front and back fence that needs to be perfectly accurate otherwise you wont get a 90 degree cut

The fence is very handy so as that you can attach stops when your cutting multiple pieces of the same size.

I use this when I cant cut something on my miter saw as the capacity of that is about 12",

Anyway since I purchased my  Rigid tablesaw  in 2015 my old crosscut sled didn’t fit it so I built this:

It measures 36” wide x 24” deep

It is made from 1/2” MDF, 1×4 poplar s4s and oak runners and finally a layer of Masonite

It works a lot more efficiently and used up some scraps that were lying around..



My workshop bucket list is getting long and Ill need to cross somethings off it.. So I figured I have some scrap plywood and I found some plans from one of my favorite woodworking guys from Woodworking for Mere Mortals host Steve Ramsey

It’s a pretty easy project but take your time with the angles.