PAPER TOWEL ORGANISER
SHOP ALTERATIONS
With my new assembly table built and the fact that I have so much more storage within the unit I decided to move all my wood finishes and glue products out of the unit that I made out of 2x4’s last year and completely dismantle that unit.
SOME DIS-ASSEMBLY
I decided to put a French cleat panel on the side of the shelving unit that still remains, so I used a couple of offcut OAK MDF panels that I was given from my old boss. The space that I created isn’t all that big but its better than nothing, its about 24” wide x 86” tall. I installed the panels with screws to one of the sides of the shelving unit . If you would like more information on that project click here
PAPER HOLDER UNIT STEPS
This project didn’t take long or take much in the line of materials to complete, I basically made the entire project out of scraps that I had lying around.
MODEL CONCEPT IN SKETCHUP
MATERIALS NEEDED
CUT-LIST
CUT PARTS TO SIZE
EDGE-BANDING
THE SIDES
JOINERY
WOODEN PLUGS
SHELF FRONT’S
FINISHED UNIT
SKECHUP MODEL
I usually design the project in my 3D software program called Sketchup, mainly to determine parts sizes and joinery methods and this project wasn’t any different. Below you can see my model.
The Unit has the following parts:
(2) Sides
(1) Back
(2) Shelves with solid wood shelf front
(1) 3/4” length of wooden dowel for hanging the paper roll.
MATERIALS
Since I had a few panels of oak MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) I decided to use that, I usually don’t like using MDF because its not a very strong material and its as bad or worse than plywood with the exposed edges. That is why I also decided to use solid oak edge banding on all exposed edges of the pieces of MDF.
Here are the parts and corresponding material type
Sides (MDF) + Solid Oak Edge-banding
Back (MDF)
Shelves (MDF) + Solid Oak Edge-banding
Shelf fronts (Solid Cherry)
CUT-LIST
Below is the project cut-list and if you want to be able to print this I will include them in the project plans at the end of this project blog.
CUT PARTS TO SIZE ON TABLESAW
My first step in this project was to cut all the parts to final size on the table-saw and this was pretty uneventful other than making sure I followed my cut-list dimensions precisely.
EDGE-BANDING
As I stated previously I used solid oak edge banding to cover the horrible MDF edges, and since I was using Oak veneered MDF I used solid oak edge banding.
There are many ways to edge-band I chose to use my biscuit jointer and glue to adhere the oak wood to the edges of both the sides and the shelves as these would be visible unless I didn't. I didn’t need to edge the back as both sides of the back would be sitting in rabbets in the sides.
Edge banding provides a few benefits especially when dealing with MDF, it provides more rigidity to the edges and it also makes a panel look like solid wood even though it is not.
After the I left the edge banding glue up over night I returned with my router and flush trim bit to make everything flush.
THE SIDES
The part of this project with the most to do was definitely the sides of the unit because:
I needed to add the solid oak edge banding
I also needed to cut all the joinery for the unit into the sides, which included rabbets on both back edges of the sides. I also needed to position 2 dadoes per side to attach the shelves to.
I also needed to pre drill the sides with countersunk holes that I would later add walnut dowels to cover up the screws.
Finally I needed to cut 1 hole per side that fit the 3/4” diameter dowel that would later hold the paper towel.
Edge Banding the Sides
Cutting the holes into the sides
JOINERY TIME
COUNTER-SINKING TIME
I figured it would be better to pre-drill the sides now before I assemble and make it easier to install the screws at the end of the project, so I used my drill and counter-sinking bit to make the hoes needed to attach the 1-1/4” screws that will secure the shelves and the back in place while the glue cures.
I also added some walnut dowels to cover up the screw holes, I had some walnut dowel leftover from the assembly table project.
SHELF FRONTS
I wanted to use solid wood fronts on the shelves for a couple of reasons, I wanted to introduce a different wood to provide the unit with some contrast, so I used some scrap cherry that had been lying around, I also wanted to add some design elements into the unit so I added some curves using my scroll saw and sanded it on my spindle and belt sander. I think they came out ok but they really came to life after adding the polyurethane wood finish.
ASSEMBLY TIME
I almost always do a dry assembly on a project before I glue it up for a couple of reasons
Make sure all the joinery was cut correctly
Rehearse the order of clamps that need to be used.
See How it looks
FRENCH CLEAT
I decided to use a French cleat to hang this unit, basically a French cleat is super easy to make . Its basically 2 opposing 45° with one attached to the unit and the other screwed to the wall.
ALL FINISHED
All that was needed was to apply a couple coats of polyurethane to the unit to protect it and stock it full of stuff.
I decided to place all my glue bottles and accessories on the top shelf and my disposable gloves on the bottom shelf, so everything I need for a glue up (except clamps) is in one place.
Below are a few pictures of the finished unit.
Thanks for reading my blog post and I hope that you complete this project, it is a great project that doesn’t need to be a shop project you could place it in your kitchen or wherever you need it, you could also make it out of solid wood and alter the size . The only limits to this project is your imagination.